We posted a fast, quick, east video showing Weber burner replacement on YouTube at:
We do a bunch of How-To videos and try to keep the How-To part as close to one minute as possible so the video moves pretty fast. This Blog Post is a slower version to shw how to remove and replace the 2 or 3 burners in a Weber barbecue grill.
The model we are using is a Pre-2002 Genesis. Weber had very few big changes over the years. Once Weber made the major changes that started with the Ducane purchase that led to the manufacturing overseas and led to the Weber family selling the company all the way to the new models this year there have been tremendous changes in Weber and a company and changes to the models every year since 2007.
However before 2007 Weber had only 2 or 3 major changes in 25 years. The model changes in 2002 was one of those times. The design is not obvious to a casual use or glance but the burners are slightly different, the ignition module and electrode are slightly different and little things like the knobs and the hood handle changed that year.
Remove the cooking grates and the flavorizer bars from the BBQ. Older Weber models had 13 flavorizer heat shields but the newer models have 5.
These are the Weber vaporizers but Weber patented their design and calls them flavorizer bars. This is the big secret that guarantees even heat and protected burners with long warranty periods.
On the far left side of the burners the front and back burners will have a bolt holding the burner to the aluminum fire box. Remove these bolts to Loose burners. Sometimes you’ll need a de-greaser or something stronger to loosen the bolts. Sometimes you’ll just need to cut them off.
Our old barbecue was badly treated and believed to be on its way to the garbage dump. Our burner support bolts had been broken just by getting left so greasy, filthy and dirty for many years so we did not have to unscrew, de-grease, lubricate or cut the bolts free.
This makes removing the old burners easier but re-installing the new burners will be more difficult.
Once the burners are loose we want to remove the control panel. This is a Genesis Silver C model so it has a side burner range on the far right side and it is net to the control panel.
We had to lift off the knobs and remove the igniter button by squeezing the sides and lifting it free in the front of the button. Then we removed the side burner be unscrewing the bolts in the back and in the front of the side burner. Once the side burner is loosened from the structure of the barbecue it can be lifted out of place although its gas line is still attached to the manifold.
Under the control panel the burners slide onto the valve orifice. At the top of the image is a pneumatic connection which is also called a “quick-connect” air hose fitting. This is the gas line to the side burner.
I choose not to remove the side burner gas hose because it is always very tight and difficult to reattach. I left the side burner hanging off the cart and connected to the gas line. We do have to remove the grate and other items from the side burner that are normally attached to the range top using gravity.
Our manifold — the pipe that delivers gas to the control valves — support brackets were very corroded where they attached to the aluminum fire box. The supports have thumb-screws to make the manifold easy to loosen in place. We did not loosen the manifold for fear of completely damaging the support brackets. With the manifold loosened the burners are much easier to slide free of the valve but…
Lift the burner from the left and slide the burner to the left so the far right side slides off the orifice. This will take a little pushing so do not be afraid to be strong here; just be careful.
Once the right side of the burner — which is the venturi and the venturi has the air shutter and the spider screen on it — is free of the control valves lower the right side to clear the manifold and slide the burners out of the barbecue. We have to slide the burner to the right to remove the burner from the gas grill because the holes in the barbecue fire box are not wide enough to allow the air shutter through this opening.
Once the burners are out for the barbecue it is a good idea to clean up a little. Your New Weber Burners are a pack of 4 burners. Isolate the crossover tube and the center burner. The front and back burners will have a hole for the cross over tube to slide into. The center burner has a flat section on the far left side of the burner. The flat cut out will fit the cross over exactly.
Slide the new burners in just as we removed the old burners reversing direction.Once all 3 main burners are in the barbecue push the cross over tube into the back burner before attaching the main burner to the fire box. We’ll need to spread the grill burner tubes by pushing the back burner back and the front burner frontwards to allow the cross-over burner to fit onto the opening. Twist the cross over so the flat bracket attaches to the middle burner.
With out loosening the manifold this is also a difficult move that requires focus and strength. Lift the left side of the burner to allow the burner to slide left and push the venturi onto the orifice. Even pushing the burners left will not be enough and the right side will be tight because the burners will not move left enough to fit on the orifice. Instead we’ll have to force them slowly and strongly so we do not slip and slam into anything.
Fit the venturi opening of the barbecue grill burner venturi tube onto the orifice at the tip of the control valve. The orifice is like the jet in a carbeurator; the opening in the orifice is gauged exactly right so the exact amount of gas is released into the burner. The orifice will go into the burner about three-eigths of an inch so the gas will spray into the burner where the air shutter is open. This causes the spraying gas to pull clean air into the burner. The mixture of gas and air is what allows the burner to burn.
Once the front of the burner is attached we can attach the left side of the burner so the tubes do not move inside the barbecue fire box. Remember we are working on a very, very old barbecue that would have been thrown in the garbage. Our burner support bolts were broken off in the aluminum casing of the grill fire box. We are going to have to either drill-out the opening and put a longer bolt through the burner and hole in the box so we can attach a locking nut on the bottom or we will use a slightly larger self-tapping screw. Slightly larger means slightly larger. Remember we are working with aluminum which melts and warps at lower temperatures than steel. Aluminum can also crack or break.
We drilled an opening to get rid of the broken bolt and then we used a self-tapping screw slightly larger than the opening. Only the front and the back burners have attachments because the cross-over burner slides onto the middle burner so it is supported. If we are totally unable to drill out the burners we have also drilled into the soft aluminum just next to the broken bolts. As long as the burners are level they do not necessarily have to be perfectly square — but they have to be really close so don’t get out of hand installing burners at an angle or anything.
Once the burners are properly fitted onto the control valve and orifice and the left side is supported our new replacement burners are installed. Often we replace the igniter electrode and collector box at the same time because it if often in the way by being inside the fire box.
Leak check the valve connection to the manifold by making sure the barbecue controls are off. Turn the gas tank to open the valve on the gas cylinder. Spray or pour soapy water on the connection and look for bubbles. Bubbles mean there is a leak. Since the side burner range top is out of the way and the control panel has been removed use this time to also pressurize and test the pneumatic side burner attachment and the hose and regulator attachment. Usually if there is a leak it is from being bumped or damaged while working on something else.
Light the burners while the control panel is still off the BBQ. The burner flames should be blue with a slightly yellow tip. Sometimes the air shutters will need to be adjusted. To adjust the mixture loosen the set-screw on the air shutter. While the burner has flames slowly open and close the air shutter. Slide the air shutter closed the gas should increase and make the flames blue. Sliding open will make the flames yellow and sometimes the flames will appear to be floating above the burner because there is too much air pushing the flames away from the burner ports. Adjust the air shutter if necessary and tighten the set screw.
Now Cook Something!
We replaced those old rusted burners but we alos replaced the cooking grates, flavorizer heat shields, hood thermometer, drip tray, drip tray basket supports, side shelves, knobs….
We rebuilt this old barbecue until it looks like a brand new old model of a Weber Genesis from back when Weber barbecues were made in America and made string enough to scrub the paint off the aluminum and repaint them.
After we tested the burners, leak checked all our attachments and checked the orifices, valves and air to gas mixture we barbecued.
Actually I thought everyone knows how to make chicken breasts and hamburgers and hot dogs and steaks and all the foods we have all seen cooked. Sure some chefs may have a better recipe — not better than me — but we’ve all got our own way to cook all the normal or traditional stuff we all normally barbeque.
The first food we cooked on our newly rebuilt Weber barbecue grill was baked cookies!
…and they were really, really, incredibly awesome.
As Always if you need assistance with bbq grill replacement parts or with installing barbecue grill replacement parts or with finding out what is needed when the gas appliance is not feeling so well we are always available.
Majestic Grill Parts
954.247.4552 — 954-2-GRILL-2.
If you did not check out the One Minute Version of this Very Long Blog Post take one mnute to watch the process here: