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Dynamic Cooking Systems replacement parts for DCS barbeque grill repair. Various electrodes to spark, ignitor module with battery holder, built in grill cover, rotisserie burner, porcelain rods to conduct grilling heat and all DCS replacement parts to repair your Dynamic Cooking Systems gas barbecue grill.
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Use Safety Valve to Test Thermocouple.Below are several safety valves from several different barbecue grills. Although all gas log fireplace pilot systems use the same technology we are focussing on the gas grill valve here. In the upper right corner is the DCS safety valve. Notice all the safety valves have a aluminum cover where the thermocouple screws to the valve. ![]() To test the safety valve and the thermocouple first remove the safety valve from the barbecue. On the DCS the safety valve -- all the DCS valves -- screw into the manifold. To remove the valve disconnect the gas line that extends all the way back to the rotisserie burner and disconnect the thermocouple. Unscrew the entire valve to remove. Remove the aluminum cap where the thermocouple attaches. ![]() Inside the valve we will see the solenoid once the cap is removed. This solenoid slides right out of the valve. Below the safety valve there is a small metal slide that will not usually come out and it is difficult to slide back in to the tiny hole where it installs inside that valve below the solenoid. Notice the spring at the far end of the thermocouple. When you depress the DCS button or with other BBQ brands push in the control valve knob this spring is compressed and the metal end is pushed up against the solenoid. ![]() Look for damage. Images at the bottom of this page show a damaged solenoid. The item is made with plastic. The copper coils and metal that becomes the electro-magnet is inside this metal housing. If the inside of the saefty valve is damaged obviously that is what needs to be replaced. It should be cleaned and degreased so movement and connections are easy. ![]() Attach the thermocouple to the cap and then insert the solenoid in the car so the side without the spring is touching the thermocouple just as though it was inside the valve. In this example I needed extra arms so I wrapped the solenoid to the cap with a few rubber bands. This held the thermocouple and cap to the solenoid so I did not have to hold it pushed up against the inside of the cap. Push the spring so the tip is pushed up against the plastic housing. Apply heat to the back tip of the thermocouple. ![]() If the theromocouple is functioning properly the heat at the tip of the thermocouple created a millivolt of electrical charge. The electrcity travelled through the copper line and into the solenoid where it charged a piece of metal and created an electro-magnet. Now as long as the heat conduction at the tip is hot the millivolt charge will continue. Remove your finger from the spring. Instead of springing back out the spring will stay compressed against the plastic housing. When the tip of the thermocouple is removed from the candle -- or whatever flame you are using to test the thermocouple -- the spring will push the metal back out and away from the plastic housing within a few seconds. |
The rotisserie valve is designed to open and allow gas flow only after heat from the rotisserie burner has created the electro-magnet. Gas flow is blocked when the solenoid de-magnetizes. If the flames blow out the steel is no longer magnetic and the force of the spring pushes the solenoid back into the opening so gas will not flow. These "safety valves" are usually only on the vertical rotisserie burner but we have also seen them used on infrared grill burners on a few models.
The customers who were kind enough to send us these images all damaged the safety valves the same way. They cleaned their grill. That is not entirely tru but they intended to clean their grill. The problem is they covered the grill grate surface with something like aluminum foil and turned the grill burners on their highest setting. They believed the extraordinary heat trapped below the grates would burn off any residue of grease, marinades, sauce, etc. They were right. The heat did all those things. However, because heat is designed to circulate throughout the barbecue area and the barriar forced the heat down the intense heat rolled forward and damaged the valves, electrode wires, module and will eventually melt the knobs right off the control panel.
A control valve is simply a miniature ball-valve with an orifice on the end to act like a sort of governor for the gas flow. Control valves have grease in the valve body to allow the movement inside as the valve is opened and closed. Gas grill and barbecue manufacturers have tested their appliances to know how much heat can be safely generated into the box so the heat can properly vent without damaging anything. The size of the orifice is based on these tests. Too much heat and the grill cannot vent itself properly. The extra heat has to go some where and all over the grill body gets hot. The control panel in the front of the barbecue has the electrical connections, valves and igniters walled-off from the heat inside the fire box. With too much heat generated the heat will warm up the control panel and damage everything in the control panel.